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I think I have bad news.

I was on a ride with some hills, and using full power in "3" intermittently.

Near the end of my trip, I was in "3" and full power as I was slowing down on a hill. Just before the top it cut out.

There was a slight click/thud which I think was just the torque cutting suddenly. No indication was shown on the dash, which remained lit and active throughout.

It rolled to a stop at the top of the hill.

After it had stopped, without powering off, I cycled P and back to "1" and it had drive.

So I set off again in "1", full power OK, then "2", full power OK, then "3" and 'click', the torque cut out again.

I went home in "2" and tested this again near home, in case I had to push it. It would cut out in "3", changing to "2" whilst rolling to a stop did not help, but once stopped it was ready to drive off in 2 again within 2 seconds.

My questions;
- is this a known thing? If so, what and how to test it.
- If not, then perhaps it is a bad cell? I do not know how the battery continues to deliver power if it cuts off, or maybe it is capacitors and the battery restarts quickly?
- I have a diagnostic lead, can I deduce anything with this, and can I analyse the cell voltages in the pack?

The pack is currently at 74.7V, so perhaps ~65% charged if all the cells were balanced.

The pack has been routinely charged to full (for balancing to happen) but is not charged to full every time, perhaps 1 in 3 uses.

What should I do next?

Either it is a battery problem or it is a Motor Controller problem.

Fardriver motor Controllers do reset most of the errors when the motor stands still.

Do you have an App for the BMS inside the battery, where you can have a look at Single cell voltages?
Do you have a Bluetooth Adapter for the motor Controller? There you would see the controller fault codes.

I think that no error message on dash means a battery cell problem.

I need to have data on the cell voltage.

I do not know if the dash shows all the controller errors.
The Bluetooth Adapter for the motor controller costs 40€ . That will be the cheapest invest to see whats going on.

If the battery cuts out , the dash will also turn off, the Odin has no separate 12V battery.

The lack of dash shutting off is strange. I have run the bike to empty before and it didn't do the same thing.

I have a lead, the plug in sort. There is some app I believe. Sigh. I don't like doing these sorts of hardware things any more, always trouble.

OK, please remind me with this lead, what do I do with it?

Is the lead enough, or does the bluetooth option gives more information and control?

I think there is no error log in the controller only an error counter.

Do you really want to drive around with your Laptop to see whats happening?

When I had problems setting up my new Fardrivers I had the Smartphone near the dash, so I could see with wich error message the controller sets when it shuts off power.
With my different motors , controllers and BMSs I had quote a lot of errors, and all of them shut off power.

Phase overcurrent, short circuit, undervoltage, throttle error...

I see. Yes, that makes sense for the reason for the bluetooth. I will have to try to find the right one? (e-Odin 2.0?)

But, what could possibly have gone wrong? Works in 2 but not 3?

Some current limit has reset itself lower, mid-ride?

I see. Yes, that makes sense for the reason for the bluetooth. I will have to try to find the right one? (e-Odin 2.0?)

But, what could possibly have gone wrong? Works in 2 but not 3?

Some current limit has reset itself lower, mid-ride? Surely not that?

Is there some connector issue I can check hardware?

I was thinking last night maybe a loose power lead, which leads to a drop of voltage and the controller cuts out, so I checked the leads and sanded off one that looked less clean than it could have been.

Tried again and this time I noticed a 'motor' fault symbol when it cut out.

So I guess it means the controller is seeing some fault in the motor at full power (in "3") only. At lower powers it is OK.

As soon as I stop the symbol goes out and I can ride on again. But it does not go out until I come to a full stop.

Whether it was there yesterday, maybe, I did not see it.

Does this help narrow the issue?

I did look at the phase wires and they seemed OK, but, maybe, one of those is loose and similarly sees a resistance imbalance at full load.

I would welcome any knowledge on this sort of fault.

Could be a hall sensor error or an overcurrent error.