Elektroroller-Forum.de

DrTom hat geschrieben: Sa 16. Dez 2023, 12:35 Hello
Very quick question. Does anyone know where I can order the white loose nylon connector pieces for the e-odin body panels? They tend to break easily!
Thanks in advance
Tom

If you have a 3D printer, you can print the parts yourself. I think Jeff Jordan has made the right file available here in the forum.
I have already printed the parts for myself as they break easily.

Zimmermännche hat geschrieben: Sa 16. Dez 2023, 16:57

DrTom hat geschrieben: Sa 16. Dez 2023, 12:35 Hello
Very quick question. Does anyone know where I can order the white loose nylon connector pieces for the e-odin body panels? They tend to break easily!
Thanks in advance
Tom

If you have a 3D printer, you can print the parts yourself. I think Jeff Jordan has made the right file available here in the forum.
I have already printed the parts for myself as they break easily.

Thank you for the great suggestion Zimmermännche and Jeff Jordan. I hadn't thought of that option. I will give it a try.

jeff-jordan hat geschrieben: Fr 20. Okt 2023, 10:44 Here I posted for gungadin how to figure out whether the motor has a short between the phases, or if the problem relates to the controller.

Unfortunately there is nothing known about the controller of E-Odin 3.0 , so we don't know if there are beep-codes or not.

But in case of the controller, you can check if there is a fried MOSFET bridge with a common multimeter: When motor and battery are disconnected, just measure the resistance between each phase and +Vcc and GND. If you find a very low resistance (approx. 10 Ohm or less), one of the MOSFET bridges is fried.

I have finally found some time to start taking my E-odin 3 apart to try the test Jeff-Jordan suggested above. However, while removing the side panels I noticed that the large red battery connector, that sits on top of the battery, was pushing up against the controller cable connection on the controller. Peeling back the soft cable protection revealed a purple cable that looked like it was broken (as in the attached photo). I do not know if that cable is used for anything or whether it was always cut. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Other than that: Google "automotive clips" and you'll find tons of those. You just need to find the right one.

DrTom hat geschrieben: So 17. Dez 2023, 17:23 ...a purple cable that looked like it was broken (as in the attached photo). I do not know if that cable is used for anything or whether it was always cut. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Well, better photos would help, it seems like that wire does is a separate loop that does not belong to 30pin connector (otherwise one of its parts would hang from it) but it can be hidden on this photo.
It was already mentioned that we can not rely on wires colors so hard to tell what this wire is for. Logically if everything works, then I would not care and only insulate it (eventhough its weird to have some strange wire inside the bike).
If we rely on that color, according to official pictures of Fardriver wiring harness it could be pink used for 60VC for alarm (does your alarm work ?) or purple (but it does not seem like purple) used for (analog) speed signal.
I am curious what you will find out, there is not much info about 10kW Odins yet.

DrTom hat geschrieben: So 17. Dez 2023, 17:23

jeff-jordan hat geschrieben: Fr 20. Okt 2023, 10:44 Here I posted for gungadin how to figure out whether the motor has a short between the phases, or if the problem relates to the controller.

Unfortunately there is nothing known about the controller of E-Odin 3.0 , so we don't know if there are beep-codes or not.

But in case of the controller, you can check if there is a fried MOSFET bridge with a common multimeter: When motor and battery are disconnected, just measure the resistance between each phase and +Vcc and GND. If you find a very low resistance (approx. 10 Ohm or less), one of the MOSFET bridges is fried.

I have finally found some time to start taking my E-odin 3 apart to try the test Jeff-Jordan suggested above. However, while removing the side panels I noticed that the large red battery connector, that sits on top of the battery, was pushing up against the controller cable connection on the controller. Peeling back the soft cable protection revealed a purple cable that looked like it was broken (as in the attached photo). I do not know if that cable is used for anything or whether it was always cut. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hallo DrTom,

das Lila Kabel ist bei meiner E Odin 3 10kw auch so.
Sieht aus wie einfach durchgeschnitten.

MB73 hat geschrieben: Mo 18. Dez 2023, 13:34
Hallo DrTom,

das Lila Kabel ist bei meiner E Odin 3 10kw auch so.
Sieht aus wie einfach durchgeschnitten.

Thank you MB73 and also Miguello80.

It is good to know the cable is the same as on another 10kw e-odin.. So I can cross It off the list of possible causes of the issue. Much appreciated. I will try to take better photos in future! Now I will carry on dismantling and test for a fried MOSFET. Will keep you posted.

Hallo zusammen

Ich habe ein Problem.
Ich habe eine der ersten Odin s damals mit 6kW und100A, der Akku ging kaputt (5 Zellen tot).
Nun habe ich mir ein 120Ah Akku geholt, leider mit großem Stecker und großen Stecker zur Sicherung und Controller nun kommt mein Problem.
Das Kabel zur Sicherung besteht aus zwei seperaten Kabel, die in die Sicherung sollen. Aber da diese so steif sind rutschen sie nach dem Festziehen wieder raus. Der Radius des Kabels in die Sicherung spielt bestimmt auch eine Rolle.
Was könnt ihr mit empfehlen?

Schöne Grüße Sylvio

Oder steht der Akku nur falsch herum?
Die beiden Kabel bekomme ich nicht in der einen Sicherung angezogen, sie rutsche leicht wieder raus.
Wie kann ich dass besser machen?

Schöne Grüße aus Schwielowsee
Sylvio

Aderendhülsen brauchts bei adrigen Kabeln nebst Aderendhülsenzange