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I think so, but perhaps just the one pack, I was considering it myself.

Maybe send me the other to try out?

I have a 36V ~12Ah battery for an ebike and if I get the same again I could string then together for 72V.

I was thinking of two options, either another circuit breaker off the main connections on the controller (like current battery or a power converter making it 'one way'.

Let me explain what I think is a possible installation and then you can consider this for yourself.

I have bolted a top box to the pillion bars on my bike. The pillion bars are there to take the weight of a person, so I don't see an issue with 20kg. I think I have loaded up more than that before. It does wobble a lot but if the weight is directly over the pillion bars, not so much.

Sp I would install extra batteries in the top box.

I don't know the size and configuration of yours, but here is mu thought on two 36V batteries. Either I connect them directly, and to do that I would have a removable coupling between the batteries and I can then attach a resistor to permit slow normalisation between the two battery packs. Once they are normalised, I'd swap it for a connector with a fuse instead.Then the packs are in sync and work together.

The other thought I had was to get a >kW voltage converter off aliexpress powered by the batteries and set its output to 78V. Then, as the battery depletes and the voltage dips as it does accelerations, the battery pack(s) (and the DC-DC voltage converter) become more and more used as the main pack depletes.

In this latter case, obviously you have to charge them up separately but the advantage is that you don't have complications with the main pack trying to send a lot of current to the auxiliary pack because the DC-DC converter acts as if it were a diode.

Some thoughts for you there, and I think some arrangement bolting them to the pillion bars is the 'cheapest' answer. You can then demount them for the vehicle test.

interesting stuff, so there are indeed various ways

i gotta check if it fits in the topbox (both combined are almost as big as the odin battery),
in case theres reasonable application : we could work on some: if you might be interested you could do the "soldering" work on a solution that does not blow up the bike - stationary or preferably mobile - (and/or also build a TYPE2 charging adapter for fast charging - but i don't know if thats even possible) - and i give you one of the 2 batteries in exchange (pricetag was 1000euro extra a yr ago)

so 1 (or 2) charging adapter/converter for a battery deal



PS: so if the plug and voltage WOULD be the same (gotta check) i could just plug them in the bike without doing anything

bin erstaunt, da ich jetzt wg (leichter) glätte mal 60kmh gefahren bin - zeigt sich das deutlich im verbrauch, normalerweise sind bei 40km 2 striche weg (akkuanzeige), wenn man aber nur halbe leistung fährt (oder eben 60) sind noch alle balken da, ich schätze mal da erhöht sich die reichweite von ca 110/120 auf vielleicht gar 180km (bei doch noch annehmbaren reisegeschw.)

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Fr 26. Dez 2025, 20:15 bin erstaunt, da ich jetzt wg (leichter) glätte mal 60kmh gefahren bin - zeigt sich das deutlich im verbrauch

Das ist Physik
50km/h 2kWh Verbrauch pro 100km
100km/h 7-8kWh Verbrauch pro 100km

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Fr 26. Dez 2025, 20:11 interesting stuff, so there are indeed various ways

i gotta check if it fits in the topbox (both combined are almost as big as the odin battery),
in case theres reasonable application : we could work on some: if you might be interested you could do the "soldering" work on a solution that does not blow up the bike - stationary or preferably mobile - (and/or also build a TYPE2 charging adapter for fast charging - but i don't know if thats even possible) - and i give you one of the 2 batteries in exchange (pricetag was 1000euro extra a yr ago)

so 1 (or 2) charging adapter/converter for a battery deal



PS: so if the plug and voltage WOULD be the same (gotta check) i could just plug them in the bike without doing anything

I'd not go so far as to offer specific advice to try a thing out, because things can go 'bang' in an instant with a big battery very willing to dump 100s of amps across any mistake you make.

I was just putting forward the thoughts I had to set something up. If my thoughts what I might do helps you decide if there is something you want to try, then I wish you good luck.

I worry about the consequences of getting it wrong. I'd be inclined to install a diode to an external pack, so the power can only go one way. But diodes are lossy and that was my thinking behind using the DC-DC converter. It would substitute for a diode and only allow flow in one way.

There are also mosfet-based active diodes with nominally zero voltage drop. But these need to be connected across the full voltage, and the ones you can get ready made tend to only go up to 60V or so.

You'd have to make your own circuit for higher voltages/currents.
I think that is not too dumb, and I'd construct it in a 'safe' way with a high resistor bleeding volts into a bootstrap circuit, so that there is no direct path for the battery through any singular components of the active diode.

dominik hat geschrieben: Fr 26. Dez 2025, 21:29

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Fr 26. Dez 2025, 20:15 bin erstaunt, da ich jetzt wg (leichter) glätte mal 60kmh gefahren bin - zeigt sich das deutlich im verbrauch

Das ist Physik
50km/h 2kWh Verbrauch pro 100km
100km/h 7-8kWh Verbrauch pro 100km

bist du sicher ? klingt schon fast "zu" gut, bei 50kmh wäre das f odin 2.0 300km+ reichweite, und in den papieren steht glaub ich 240km oder so...ich dachte immer die gehen schon von schonendem fahren aus bei den maximal werten,

bob2.0 hat geschrieben: So 28. Dez 2025, 13:06

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Fr 26. Dez 2025, 20:11 interesting stuff, so there are indeed various ways

i gotta check if it fits in the topbox (both combined are almost as big as the odin battery),
in case theres reasonable application : we could work on some: if you might be interested you could do the "soldering" work on a solution that does not blow up the bike - stationary or preferably mobile - (and/or also build a TYPE2 charging adapter for fast charging - but i don't know if thats even possible) - and i give you one of the 2 batteries in exchange (pricetag was 1000euro extra a yr ago)

so 1 (or 2) charging adapter/converter for a battery deal



PS: so if the plug and voltage WOULD be the same (gotta check) i could just plug them in the bike without doing anything

I'd not go so far as to offer specific advice to try a thing out, because things can go 'bang' in an instant with a big battery very willing to dump 100s of amps across any mistake you make.

I was just putting forward the thoughts I had to set something up. If my thoughts what I might do helps you decide if there is something you want to try, then I wish you good luck.

I worry about the consequences of getting it wrong. I'd be inclined to install a diode to an external pack, so the power can only go one way. But diodes are lossy and that was my thinking behind using the DC-DC converter. It would substitute for a diode and only allow flow in one way.

There are also mosfet-based active diodes with nominally zero voltage drop. But these need to be connected across the full voltage, and the ones you can get ready made tend to only go up to 60V or so.

You'd have to make your own circuit for higher voltages/currents.

WhatsApp Image 2025-12-28 at 12.04.31.jpeg

I think that is not too dumb, and I'd construct it in a 'safe' way with a high resistor bleeding volts into a bootstrap circuit, so that there is no direct path for the battery through any singular components of the active diode.

thanks for the "rough draft" ill keep that in mind

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Mi 31. Dez 2025, 22:08 bist du sicher ? klingt schon fast "zu" gut, bei 50kmh wäre das f odin 2.0 300km+ reichweite

Das passt durchaus gut, es ist auch bei vielen elektronischen Zweiräder der Klasse sehr ähnlich. So 1,6kw Brauch ich bei 47kmh mit dem emax 90s und meine Stanford liegt bei ~8,5-9,5kw bei 100kmh.
Hat natürlich mit Wind/Gewicht/Temperatur und was nicht alles zutun.

Pedator92 hat geschrieben: Mi 31. Dez 2025, 23:12

baracus1983 hat geschrieben: Mi 31. Dez 2025, 22:08 bist du sicher ? klingt schon fast "zu" gut, bei 50kmh wäre das f odin 2.0 300km+ reichweite

Das passt durchaus gut, es ist auch bei vielen elektronischen Zweiräder der Klasse sehr ähnlich. So 1,6kw Brauch ich bei 47kmh mit dem emax 90s und meine Stanford liegt bei ~8,5-9,5kw bei 100kmh.
Hat natürlich mit Wind/Gewicht/Temperatur und was nicht alles zutun.

interessant, werde ich mal test-messen, 50-60kmh ist ja angenehme reisegeschw. - einfach statt pendler/schnellstr. die landstr. nehmen bis akku fast runter ist, wäre ich sehr positiv überrascht