jeff-jordan hat geschrieben: Mo 16. Jun 2025, 09:52
Thank you Bob! Nice and controlled way to push stator and rim apart.
Any hints on reassembling the motor?
I guess it won't be a good idea just to let the stator snap uncontrolled into the rim with the magnets.
Yes. That in reverse.
Bring the axle/hub under the wheel and guide the top of the axle through the other cover plate by gripping the axle in one had while inserting the guide bolts (note; the bearing may either stay in the cover plate or stay on the axle, doesn't really matter, it went different ways on different occasions for me).
[Also, I would say best to replace the seal at this stage. Use red rubber grease to lube up the seal and the shaft to get a good sliding seal on it. The bearing is easy to replace on that side, if you like. But not for the other side as it requires motor dismantling as the phase wires have to be disassembled. Use a 3 armed puller to pull the cover plate off the cable side, if you want to swap that seal out.]
The tricky bit is cleaning off all the old sealant, then adding new sealant and manoeuvering the axle/hub without smearing that freshly laid sealant.
(You only need a tiny amount. I put way too much on the first time and it was endless getting it off again. I made a spreader tool to wipe off excess the next time.)
It's a bit of muscle effort to hold the axle one end with one hand and guide the other through the (now) upper plate. Then you have to thread those guide bolts in place again, one handed hold on the axle, and the other the bolts. It is fiddly, but worth doing as it makes everything else so easy.
The bearing puller remains in place, with an inch allowance for the axle to come out to.
You want it so that there is just enough magnetic pull that it lifts up and contacts the puller tip, without falling back again.
You can then ease back the puller and the hub slowly, and majestically, rises up into the hub by the magnetic force.
Once the puller goes loose, the bearing is home on the upper place, remove the puller and flip the wheel.
Then you have to tap the bearing back into place. I cannot say I did this the best way. Perhaps, start with striking the axle flat directly, but only for a coarse location when the bearing is still not in very far.
Once it is further home, you have to cover the central shoulder with some rubber or something like that to protect it, then hammer directly down using a drift tool, tapping around to get it evenly re-bedded.
When the gap is a few mm, and before the sealant gets all smeared around, then refit the screws and this will centralise the plate.
Then tap a bit more, gradually tighten the screws, as the bearing relocates.
When the gap is closed up, do a bit more tapping to take off any residual strain in the screws, and tighten the screws to 3 Nm, then 4, then 5, going around in an even pattern.
I'll write this out again sometime soon, with a bit more detail and with pictures. But in case someone has a go to do this before I write it, this may be useful summary.
PS. Above is for my 2.0 motor. The later motor might vary.
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So the tricks are to use the guide bolts (m3 ? m4 ?) and the "puller" (as a push-limiter or push-controller) to tame the magnetic force in the way that it reassembles it all.