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bob2.0 hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 15:57 I guess maybe a woodruff key? I can take the circlip off to see what is underneath it on the shaft, if you like?

I expect something like such a woodruff key. But there must be some kind of anchor point at the stator package. I guess that's the weak spot.

It would be really nice if you can have a look underneath it and take some pictures where shaft and the steel sheet of the stator are fixed together.
Then I can estimate what it takes to fix the issue.... or just to leave it as it is now (currently without recu).

Stator and its axle are normally a solid pressfit! What is clonking during torque reversals are the flat spots of the axle ends rocking back and forth in the fork of the swingarm, due to losened nuts. I hope that the Odin also has two torque arms that are separately screwed to the swing arm?!
I made that fixing screw hole in the torque arms oblong, so I could firmly clamp the flat axle ends in the reverse position, were it is pushed when accelerating, then first tightened the LH nut, which further torqued the axle int the reverse position, and lastly then the RH axle nut.

Dominik, with his insanely overpowered hub motor, machined himself very solid clamps for this purpose.

I have lost my circlip set (again!) but I could rotate it around.

There is a woodruff key in there, or at least, some sort of detent, not quite sure.

Thank you bob for taking that extra picture.
Curiously, my special pliers for the circlips dissipate regularly too.

MEroller hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 16:56 ...What is clonking during torque reversals are the flat spots of the axle ends rocking back and forth in the fork of the swingarm, due to losened nuts. ...

That's what I first thought too, so I checked all the axle nuts and tightened them as tight as I could... but it had no influence at the "tschack" noise.

bob2.0 hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 14:55
But, please tell me, how have you got the other side plate off?

I just held the cover in my hand and smashed the whole thing with the axle onto a big piece of wood.

dominik hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 20:38 I just held the cover in my hand and smashed the whole thing with the axle onto a big piece of wood.

OK, thanks for letting me know.

I'll order a cheap 10" puller. Unfortunately only 2 arm pullers in my price range. I hope that is OK for the cover plate.

My bearings look welded in with corrosion. I think some caution needed.

Putting them back, I guess you used a drift/hammer/tube?

The main thing for getting steel bearings out of aluminium housings, as well as getting them back in, is cooling the bearings as low as possible (freezer at -18°C ?), and generously heating up the aluminium. For getting out only heating the aluminium will work, of course...
And when inserting the new ones, find a large piece of tube or a socket that will only sit on the outer ring for hammering it home.

MEroller hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 20:56 ...And when inserting the new ones, find a large piece of tube or a socket that will only sit on the outer ring for hammering it home.

There are dedicated tools available for that job.
But whether you drive the bearing into the intake with a tube or a tool, main objective is not to tilt the bearing.

When I did the head bearings on my GSXR, I used a drift and it started twisting. Wow. That took some 'undoing'. Once they get even slightly twisted then they are incredibly difficult to fix. Yes. I should have probably left it in the freezer.

In this case, the bearing is on the stator, and my freezer is not that big!

MEroller hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 20:56 And when inserting the new ones, find a large piece of tube or a socket that will only sit on the outer ring for hammering it home.

That is the problem I am anticipating, because it is the outer plate that needs to be tapped home onto the bearing. It is not the bearing being pushed into the housing, you cannot get to that side.

bob2.0 hat geschrieben: Di 28. Jan 2025, 21:51 ...
In this case, the bearing is on the stator, and my freezer is not that big!
...

It helps to cool them down with a big can of technical cooling spray (not the one that you use for sporting injuries).

To remove bearings, a so called "Gleithammer" / slide hammer is useful.
I used it for replacing the front wheel bearings of my Futura Classico Li.