Dismantling and repairing the motor :o

[jeff-jordan]

As far as I can remember, there are two sets of hall sensors.
One regular, the other one as spare.
And I think one set is at the inside edge of the stator, the other at the outside.
So if set-a doesn't get triggered, set-b should.

[bob2.0]

Unfortunately they are not consistently on one side or other.

I messed this up a bit. My bad.

I will have to try it and hope for the best.

If not, that will be a very thorough waste of time and effort. I very much hope it does not come to this.

An electronic solution would be to combine the two sets of Hall signals into one signal through some sort of conditioning board. It wouldn't even be very difficult but I'd need to know which wires do what. I suppose, in practice, if I have messed it up that badly, this would be possibly the cheapest solution.

Do we know what the wiring on the two sets looks like? I could do some tests, but at least I'd need to know which ones are the power lines, and what voltage they run at out of the controller?

If I can get that (power cable colours/voltage and output) I could do a circuit test.

[bob2.0]

Actually, I think the signal is half of the power voltage and then it goes up and down, so, somehow, to do that would need to pick the biggest delta to zero magnetic, then pick the largest magnitude.

Maybe, 6 op amp buffers, connect the outputs of each pair through a resistor divider to get an average, pluck the central voltage with a divider on the power voltage, and re-buffer that to FSD with 3 comparators to mid-voltage. That'd give a crisp full scale signal to the higher of pull up or pull down.

[jeff-jordan]

Now that tire change is due (after approx. 30 tsd. km with the conti road attack 3), I dismantled the motor and it looks much better inside than I thought (no rust inside).

But some questions related to the semi-dismantled motor: how do I get access to the other side of the stator without damaging anything, where the second set of hall sensors is wired?
I'm just asking because I want to add a KTY84/130 (using the wires of the spare hall connector)...

And what kind of sealing did you use to reassemble the motor? Simply transparent bathroom silicone?

[MEroller]

But some questions related to the semi-dismantled motor: how do I get access to the other side of the stator without damaging anything, where the second set of hall sensors is wired?

When you have the stator out anyway, like now, just turn the stator 180° to see and work on the other side? After pulling off the other lid...
You must mean something different as this is too trivial a question and answer

[dominik]

The left side cover has to be torn away with a puller or the Stator has to be pressed out

[jeff-jordan]

That's the problem.
There is nothing to pull or press against at the stator side of the motor. At the right side I had the brake disc to pull against with the puller...

[MEroller]

Meaning you cannot push the lid down when you stand the stator on the cable-side axle stub? That is how I got it off my 5/8kW 13" hub motor lid.
Otherwise you would need a huge 3-prong puller, with the center screw pushing against the axle stub, and the three arms grabbing the lid from below.

[jeff-jordan]

Meaning you cannot push the lid down when you stand the stator on the cable-side axle stub?

Yep, exactly. And I'm worried to smash it with brute force on top of a wooden block.
So I would need to get a long-legged, 3-pronged puller (or build one myself).

Can anybody explain what's underneath the rubber lid, that seems to protect axle and bearing from dust & dirt?
I'm not sure about the picture from bob2.0.
And I definitely won't be happy to damage anything.

Maybe I'll cancle the KTY84/130 idea to avoid the risk of damaging the seal?
My E-Odin 2.0 now has almost 34,000 km on the clock and the engine has coped well with the lack of a temperature sensor.

[MEroller]

The "lid" is a sealing ring.
But if only adding temp. sensor is the issue: does this mean you cannot access the cable channel form the other side to try and slide it though? It will be extremely tight in there already with all the cables going through...