Dismantling and repairing the motor :o

[bob2.0]

I've disconnected the wires and slackened the nuts, which did not take long. But it was long enough for my fingers to get too cold to do more!

I'll rearrange the garage tomorrow so I don't block it up with a wheel-less bike in the way, and remove it.

I'd like to ask;

• I have a white (connected) and a black (not connected) plug coming out of the motor loom, obviously the white is the Hall sensors, what is the black one?
  
  How does your motor loom route? Mine came out under the middle of swing arm axle and straight up to under the seat, but it looks like it might be better to come off the end of one arm at the pivot, and run behind the battery? I am not sure if there is a best way for it?
  
  What axle torque do people set the bolts too?

Observations;

• I guess those motor side plates are really important and structural because they carry the axle bearing? That seems quite a risk to let the rotor get pulled in and 'bang' into place on to the bearing interface when re-installing?
  
  The motor cables look quite small cross-section for >150A, but I guess maybe they only see that for a few seconds before levelling out to a a few 10A?
  
  I can't see that swing arm lasting many years, it looks like a rust-magnet. Maybe take it off and clean it up while the wheel is off?
  
  The tyre is already replaced, but I might deflate and break the bead and re-seat it, because it does not seem to sit quite straight on the rim, and wobbles a bit from side to side as the wheel rotates.

[dominik]

The Black one could be a second hall sensor set.

High currents are only during low revs and during hard acceleration.

[MEroller]

• I have a white (connected) and a black (not connected) plug coming out of the motor loom, obviously the white is the Hall sensors, what is the black one?

What are the cable colors going the white and black connector? Pictures are great thing for accompanying such a question

If in both instances the colors are red, black, blue, green and yellow, then both connectors are for the hall switches in the motor, the black is maybe a second spare set of sensors.

[bob2.0]

Stator removal procedure?

I have been going over this in my head, best thing to do, and I was about to invest in a set of M5 studs, the objective being to stabilise the stator as it comes out.

But I don't think they would. What I think would happen is simply that the magnets will clamp on to the stator on one side, and it'll just be pure mechanical dragging after that. Both out and back in.

Is it still a good idea to try to help the motion by leaving the side plates in/on, and guide them, even if the magnets drag? Or just take both side plates off?

I guess the shaft seals will help guide it at least. Maybe renew those?

[bob2.0]

I'm expecting to find a magnet, or few, that have started rusting and bubbling.

The reason is that when I used to spin the wheel, it gave this 'shooosh-shooosh' as it rotated, which I assumed was the rear brake.

I think there was/is a magnet already bubbling up a bit and grazing the stator. This is the same sound it makes now, in addition to the 'zing-zing' sound as it slows down. By hand, you can tell the 'shooosh' is the same point in the rotation as the 'zing'.

My busy riding in the soaking rain will not have helped this get better.

I think it will probably need some sanding and painting, so I took a look at this page about painting nickel magnets;-

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog/painting-magnets

I have in the past used some good grey acrylic primer on my car, which was so good that it was almost the right colour, so I just left it! It adhered well. I also used pure zinc primer with it for anti-rust, but it reduced its adherence so I think I might aim for a good paint just to coat it, rather than try to use a zinc solution.

I fear this is a job I (we?) will have to keep doing every year or two, if the magnets start going rusty?

[MEroller]

Please no zinc! Just use a good clear coat, after you have removed all the rust. I have done this twice already, once to a hub motor, once to a mid drive pancake motor. Normally the magents should have a rust protection on them, while the stator does not, and is thus usually the culprit.

[bob2.0]

I did wonder about zinc. What do you see as the issues?

The primers I tend to go for are zinc-rich, though (zinc phosphate).

I'll take a look and figure it out. If it is the stator, I will just be sanding it. Magnets will have to get some sort of protection, if the nickel is broken then further corrosion would be endless.

At this point I am hoping that is all that's the issue. If it is more, I am already making enquiries about another motor.

[MEroller]

With Nickel you are introducing another metal into the electric motor, which is not really necessary, as the surfaces simply need to be protected from occasional dampness, not against 720h of salt spray. The latter is where Zinc coatings reign.

[bob2.0]

What are the cable colors going the white and black connector? Pictures are great thing for accompanying such a question

Yes, but dark yesterday!

Today ..

[MEroller]

Today ..

WhatsApp Image 2025-01-23 at 17.27.59.jpeg

So the white one is indeed the connector for Hall-Switch communication between the motor and the controller. The black one with white, brown, orange (?), violet, and grey cables, however, is of a different kind, and thus hardly is connected to a second set of hall switches in the motor. Sorry I have no clue about that one. Hopefully a Dayi Odin owner here can identify it?