E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[Opa-Peter]

Nabend,
habe Gestern erfolgreich neuen TÜV bekommen ohne Mängel.
Das Licht musste ich aber im Vorfeld schon deutlich tiefer einstellen da ich bei Fahrten im Dunkeln die Vögel in den Bäumen geweckt habe.
Ansonsten ist alles bis auf Stoßdämpfer und Rücklicht/ Bremslicht/ Blinker Hinten Original.
Der Prüfer war recht Neugierig denn er hatte so ein Moped noch nie gesehen.
Gruß
Peter

[Pinky]

Hi Opa-Peter,

Glückwunsch. Bin nächste Woche dran. Mal sehen was mein Prüfer sagt.

Gruß

[DrTom]

Hallo DrTom,

das Lila Kabel ist bei meiner E Odin 3 10kw auch so.
Sieht aus wie einfach durchgeschnitten.

Thank you MB73 and also Miguello80.

It is good to know the cable is the same as on another 10kw e-odin.. So I can cross It off the list of possible causes of the issue. Much appreciated. I will try to take better photos in future! Now I will carry on dismantling and test for a fried MOSFET. Will keep you posted.

Hello again. It has been a long time since my last post because the weather has only just got better here in the UK, which meant I wasn't able to do any work on the bike. I finally took the battery out and tested the resistance on the eodin 3.0 controller. Seemed fine between phase and ground (about 5 kOhms). That's ok right?

I was wondering what the resistance to the hub should be between two phase cables (when detached). It seems there is hardly any resistance at all. Is that correct?

I'm still have no idea what is wrong with the bike, the display does not work when I turn the key (no power, nothing) but does light up when I use the fob, but the motor makes a slight grinding noise. Any help diagnosing the problem is very appreciated.

[DrTom]

Hi, a quick update on this. I found a broken cable from the ignition (red cable) in the bunch of cables leading back to the DC converter and controller. It seems the flexing of the cable due to steering caused a break. I reconnected it and the dashboard now works. All I need to do now is put the bike back together! Fingers crossed that is all.

[MEroller]

I was wondering what the resistance to the hub should be between two phase cables (when detached). It seems there is hardly any resistance at all. Is that correct?

Yes, the Ohm-Resistance of phase windings should close to 0, as anything more is an electric heater, instead of an efficient electric motor. That is why modern controllers are extremely careful when applying phase current at standstill or low rpm. Only at higher RPM the inductive resistance rises, and back-EMF also starts doing its thing, thus limiting maximum rpm automatically.

Great that you seem to have found a solution to your problem!