E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[Miguello80]

Thanks, this confirms to me that it should not be a problem to buy a classic PC power cable (like the stock one that powers my stock 10A charger)....

Have you tried this, and could I ask this question?

My bike has the original 10A charger, the lead includes a red and black, but also a small yellow wire.

Is there some special message sent to the charger from the bike to make it work in a certain way?

I ask this question because I have ordered an 8A charger (a 72V, i.e. up to 84V) as an additional charger, but it is not anything special. Will this work OK, or does that yellow line carry an important message for the charger?

Jeff already answered about yellow wire, I will add only this:
I connected my 40A charger directly to the controller so I did not buy any cable. I used only red and green = line and ground, all other small wires I insulated. Yes, now I do not have motor blocked while charging but I am not and idiot (or I hope so) Cable that goes from controller and is used to be plugged into the outlet (classic 230V socket in the wall at home) is under the seat and I connect it to the Schuko-Mennekes adapter so I am able to charge from charging stations.

[Miguello80]

I did that because I don't think a 6 pin plug will pass through the hole, so this way I will fit a tail tidy later, and use 'bullet connectors'.

Almost all connectors can be de-pinned so you can pull wires out, push them through hole and then back into the connector.

In regards the wiring, what I wanted to understand was the wire colours and where they went. Just, a usual wiring diagram. For those who built their own out of a box, did the wiring diagram come with it?

Yes, there was a manual in the box but it is unusable because the wiring diagram is too small = unreadable.
Red is usually live wire (battery voltage or 12V from DC/DC stepdown converter), green and sometimes black is ground. Everything else is a question of tracking down For example blue wire in the "cockpit" is for high beams and white is for low beams.

[Miguello80]

Hi guys, as I mentioned earlier, I ordered new brake levers (16 euro) from Aliexpress.

Today I noticed that these levers that seemed to be 1:1 to original has one problem - when you install them you need to push them a little bit into the housing / brake pump but then that part that pushes the valve in when lever is pulled already pushes the valve in a little bit even when lever is untouched. That makes problem with bleading the brakes because the valve does not come to its maximal out position and the air (and also brake fluid in the hose) can not get back into the reservoir. In the worst scenario - I saw that in one video about Harley Davidson with chinese replica brake levers - it can cause the blocking the brake because brake fluid get hot (yes, we do not ride so fast to make brake fluid so hot but it is possible), it expanses and as it can not expanse back into reservoir it makes piston push brake pads further and further and that can make the brake lock = cause the accident due to locked wheel.
I took a little bit off until replacement for actual Brembo (yes, chinese replica) lever arrives and it works as it should but wanted to add this for anyone that would like to replace original levers with these or similar. You can, just try to bleed the brakes and if it does not work, check the lever.

[bob2.0]

Jeff posted info about bars here - viewtopic.php?f=157&t=29218&p=255103&hilit=balken

That's great useful information and analysis.

So, I have converted that to battery percentages, assuming the NMC442 discharge curve, and assuming 'relaxed' open cell voltage state. But it is quite a gentle current draw I think for the 6kW motor, less than 1C average, so the open cell voltage curve will not be too far off.

(If the exact chemistry is known, I can re-plot this table for that cell type.)

One might say the individual bar capacity is approximately miles. I seem to be actually better than 1 mile per bar percent if I ride nicely and using "power #2".

(The % numbers might not quite align with the first column, because the decimals are rounded off.)

This matches my experience, that the 8th bar seems to disappear quite quickly and the 6th bar seems to last a long while.

Question; can the bar intervals be re-set using the data link? I can devise the voltages they should be set for linear discharge at 10% per bar (or maybe better 20% on the last bar, for a spare 10% 'emergency' pot, and 9 even intervals for the others)?

[Miguello80]

If the exact chemistry is known, I can re-plot this table for that cell type.

Save your time, for exact numbers you would have to check bars + voltage during whole battery capacity and this would be dangerous on the road and time consuming on the stand.

Cut-off voltage depends on version, factory settings for 6kW Odins with QS motor is 63 V, for my 6kW Odin with AMR motor it is 62 V. But it can be changed in controller settings.

If you added a voltmeter you would have info about real voltage and be aware of turtle mod and / or flat battery. Or get used to behavior of bars as many other owners did.

Do not be affraid, there is plenty other things you can examine or upgrade on E-Odin

[MEroller]

LiIon, not NMC.

NMC IS a type of LiIon chemistry! No matter if NMC, NCA, LiCo, LFP - they are all Lithium-Ion chemistries.

Maybe you mean to compare NMC with LFP, which have a widely differing charging and discharging voltage curve?

[bob2.0]

I am confident it is NMC, from the voltages.

There is no point going below 3.3V on NMC because there is so little capacity left. It may be that the software is, as you say, programmed to cut at a lower voltage, because under load the voltage will be pulled down (especially as there is so little charge left in the cells).

However, in practice this would mean 3.3V/cell is the lower "open-cell" operating point. My bike certainly went away very soon after it dropped to 3 bars. I think it was actually 3 miles on bar 3 before it died with black-screen. So I think the table is right about this.

NMC442 (4 parts nickel, 4 manganese and 2 cobalt) was a very common chemistry a few years ago. NMC622 has the highest capacity and I think became popular. NMC811 is liked because it has the least cobalt in but has the lowest capacity for an NMC recipe. They all have benefits and disadvantages so I don't know what was used, but the curves are different.

[Miguello80]

LiIon, not NMC.

NMC IS a type of LiIon chemistry! No matter if NMC, NCA, LiCo, LFP - they are all Lithium-Ion chemistries.

Oh, my bad, I got NMC mixed with NiCd batteries used in old mobile phones
Thank you for correction.

[Miguello80]

I am confident it is NMC, from the voltages.

My bad, I mixed it with NiCd.

There is no point going below 3.3V on NMC because there is so little capacity left. It may be that the software is, as you say, programmed to cut at a lower voltage, because under load the voltage will be pulled down (especially as there is so little charge left in the cells).

However, in practice this would mean 3.3V/cell is the lower "open-cell" operating point. My bike certainly went away very soon after it dropped to 3 bars. I think it was actually 3 miles on bar 3 before it died with black-screen. So I think the table is right about this.

My opinion is that Odins are very tamed, I guess for long lasting, I got it easily to 16 kW peak so far and no problem even with heat, so it would be very weird for Dayi to set the battery cut off voltage to value that can shorten the life of the battery.

Yes, full throttle and voltage drops about 3 V down I guess, in 1st speed it will not be so much so it could get under 3.3 V per cell (62:20=3.1 V / 63:20=3.15 V). I measured different values on battery than controller showed in app. I am not sure what value was higher but I believe that it was value in app. Difference was not too big, I think it was around 0.5 V so not too significant.

I rather focused on shocks and geometry and power and I charge when possible, at least at 65-66 V so I do not get stuck on the road. I changed the display so I see real voltage so I get rid of inaccurate bars and stress of flat battery.

Somewhere I read that LG and Panasonic cells were used in batteries for E-Odins. It is possible that there are different cells in older Odins and newer Odins, why would be cut off voltage lower for newer Odins.

I tried to Google the brand on the battery but it seems that they provided only the box as they offer similar boxes on their website (maybe they did whole battery, everything is possible).

This is all energy I am willing to put into this topic, bike needs more important things

[bob2.0]

How well does this bike manage with wet weather?

Is it OK out in the rain?

I do not want to ride in the rain, but sometimes I prefer it to driving a car.

On my bike, if I look down under the seat to the rear shock, it is all open, there is nothing to stop road spray coming up under the seat. Is that correct, or is my bike missing a panel?