E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[jeff-jordan]

How well does this bike manage with wet weather?

Is it OK out in the rain?

I do not want to ride in the rain, but sometimes I prefer it to driving a car.
...

It's not the best bike in the rain.
I wouldn't recommend to let it stay outdoors when there is heavy rainy weather.
But light showers doesn't really matter.

Some people reported problems with drowned flasher relais.
There is the possibility of water entering into the cockpit from the lower part, so some of the connectors may be affected too.

Furthermore, my E-Odin shows up with squeaking brakes when it's wet (but it still brakes ).

...
On my bike, if I look down under the seat to the rear shock, it is all open, there is nothing to stop road spray coming up under the seat. Is that correct, or is my bike missing a panel?

Same here.
I've only a small abs part underneath the seat, that holds the alarm device... the rest remains open.
I think the newer E-Odin 3 has some kind of additional plastic guard plate.

[bob2.0]

I think the newer E-Odin 3 has some kind of additional plastic guard plate.

Maybe we need to buy this part, if it is compatible?

The wiring behind the headlight is not dissimilar to other motorcycles. But it would be good to find a way to house it all better.

There is also the added issue that there are wires with 72V present behind the light. This is a much bigger problem than 12V if there is rain that gets in.

There is a gap right through from the front, did you know? It channels rain on to the wiring.

I have put a filter foam in front of the battery and inverter, to stop rain entering the plastic openings. I don't think rain would get far up the sides, so maybe that is OK and needed for cooling air?

[bob2.0]

I did some tinkering to try to help protect the wiring behind the headlight; viewtopic.php?p=372436#p372436

[bob2.0]

I did some weatherproofing today, I put the details in the 'tinkering' thread.

Some more mounting points snapped off. I grease them when I reinstall them and they still snap off.

If they make plastics out of chalk, not sure what else I can do about it. I must admit, the plastics do actually fit together quite well, it is not a bad effort for Chinese product, but the plastic is so brittle. I have used velcro to substitute for some of the broken clips.

[bob2.0]

Hmm, good point, thank you, I have to measure it but I expect that this socket is alive and water can cause short-circuit. In my bike is this socket connected directly to controller (or more precisely on bolts where is battery's + and - connected) so I will think about adding a breaker that disconnects this socket from controller and will be switched on only before charging.

I was thinking about this issue.

Did you ever do this?

Perhaps the better option is to install a diode? Current can only go in, not come out?

A low voltage drop diode should be around 0.3V VF at 1A, maybe 0.4V. It would mean the battery is very slightly less charged at 100% (but also not so close to 'the danger zone'!!). So the question is when the BMS activates cell balancing?

I read it somewhere, but I regret many searches does not reveal this number again.

Do we know with certainty when the BMS starts cell balancing?

I guess the current when the chargers stops charging depends on the charger you have?

[Zimmermännche]

I did some weatherproofing today, I put the details in the 'tinkering' thread.

Some more mounting points snapped off. I grease them when I reinstall them and they still snap off.

If they make plastics out of chalk, not sure what else I can do about it. I must admit, the plastics do actually fit together quite well, it is not a bad effort for Chinese product, but the plastic is so brittle. I have used velcro to substitute for some of the broken clips.

Du meinst bestimmt auch diese Clips. Wenn man anfängt die Odin zu zerlegen bricht meistens mindestens einer dieser Clips. Zum Glück hat, ich glaube Jeff-Jordan, hier im Forum die Teile schon nachkonstruiert und die Datei zur Verfügung gestellt.
Ich habe mir gleich mal einen Vorrat in diversen Materialien gedruckt (PLA, PETG, und Resin/Harz) und auch schon welche an meiner Odin ersetzt. Aber eigentlich reicht PLA vollkommen aus. Besser die PLA Clips brechen beim nächsten zerlegen als andere Teile an der Verkleidung.
(Ich halte es hier im Forum so wie Miguello mal geschrieben hat: Macht euch keine Mühe, schreibt einfach auf Deutsch und ich übersetze mir das dann. Scheint ja auch für dich gut zu funktionieren)

[bob2.0]

Thank you for the thought. Unfortunately, it is the actual panels on the bike where the clips have broken.

It would be better if the ones you have there, these pieces, were sacrificial, and were made weak, so that they broke before the Chinesium chalk-plastic.

I think there are now less of those square panel clip openings left than there are that are still there.

(2 on each side of the small panels by the seat, I have none left, they are all gone. The top two clips on the left battery panel are gone. So I think that is 4 remaining out of a possible 10 for the side panels! I have one front indicator panel clip of two still there.)

I have been super gentle. I am well experienced with removing bike plastics, this is just plastic turning brittle in the space of 3 years.

But, with the help of velcro, none of these clips seem to be 'essential'. Unlike some of my sports bikes where I have had to glue or reengineer broken parts.

(Be careful! The backing glue on genuine 3M velcro is incredibly strong. Sometimes I just use 3M velcro just to glue parts together, it is so strong. If you use too much of it, too large an area, it won't come off again without breaking what it is stuck to!)

[bob2.0]

The yellow wire is just connected to GND (-) inside the charger and pulls the brake indicator line low when you plug it into the socket at the rear of the bike.
So you can't accidentally drive away while you're charging.

I re-wired my charger today because the cable on it was not good, and I wanted it shorter and lighter for travelling with.

I was worried to get it wrong, maybe something burns if it is connected wrongly by accident?

But your comment made me wonder something, can you offer a thought?

So if I understand it right, if this yellow wire does not get connected to ground, then you can just ride off? For example, if you fitted a small generator to the rear, and it was putting out a kW? It would not be the fastest 'hybrid' bike in the world, or maybe it would be as there aren't any until Kawasaki start selling their?

[Zimmermännche]

I think there are now less of those square panel clip openings left than there are that are still there.

(2 on each side of the small panels by the seat, I have none left, they are all gone. The top two clips on the left battery panel are gone. So I think that is 4 remaining out of a possible 10 for the side panels! I have one front indicator panel clip of two still there.)

Oh ok, ich verstehe was du meinst. Bei mir ist bisher zum Glück nur ein solches Gegenstück/Loch gebrochen. Das war im vorderen Bereich der Batterieseitenteile.
Und an einem der kleinen Seitenteile/Verkleidungsstück selbst zwischen Sitz und Tank ist mir der Grundhalterung für den Clip abgebrochen.

[Miguello80]

Hmm, good point, thank you, I have to measure it but I expect that this socket is alive and water can cause short-circuit. In my bike is this socket connected directly to controller (or more precisely on bolts where is battery's + and - connected) so I will think about adding a breaker that disconnects this socket from controller and will be switched on only before charging.

Did you ever do this?
Perhaps the better option is to install a diode? Current can only go in, not come out?

No, I focused on more important things. Mostly I do not forget to close the charging socket. Sometimes I do and so far no problem even on wet roads, this part is well protected by fender.

Current does not have to go any direction Pins on charging socket are live (I mean + pin), they are the ends of wires connected directly to controller under those same screws that holds wires from battery so connecting those two pins is almost the same as short circuit on battery but in this case it can damage the controller too.

So the question is when the BMS activates cell balancing?
Do we know with certainty when the BMS starts cell balancing?
I guess the current when the chargers stops charging depends on the charger you have?

I am affraid that nobody knows this exactly. My guess is simple: BMS stops charging according the value in its setting (usually is my battery fully charged 84.2 V, recently I got 84.3 V), charger "feels" no draw so stops charging. Of course every charger has its own settings of charging V and A etc. that can be changed by turning the small potentiometers inside but here BMS is the king, you can not charge battery when BMS closes it.
Question is whether BMS really does have a balancing function or is battery balancing only as a natural transfer between packs ??? Our BMS is not smart so I would rather expect the second option.