E-Odin 2.0 AMR Wiederaufbau nach Controllerdefekt

[Miguello80]

What I don't like is how the power is de-rated as the battery depletes.
...
What are you guys doing in regards the de-rating settings, and is there much room to safely change these things?

Power (W) is A x V. As battery depletes, power goes down so with 1/2 battery bike will not have the same power as fully charged so there is nothing we can do with it. Google NMC discharge curve, it is not so bad, middle part is almost flat and lasts long.
Controller has settings for 1st and 2nd gear.
Then there is also undervolting protection and a limp/turtle mode. I am not sure that it is possible to change these values, I am to lazy to go to bike and check it
Bars on display are not precise, do not trust them.
Voltmeter is a good thing, you will see voltage sag + actual voltage to be able to determine when to run to the charger.
I am affraid that there is not much we can do about battery.
If I did not understand what you mean feel free to kick me.

[bob2.0]

It certainly seems to be more than that, and deliberately programmed.

But I could be wrong.

I can do indicated >100kph down to about 60% SOC.

Then all the maps start derating together. That is what I 'think' and feel is happening.

Once it is under 50% it's a max of 80kph.

If we assume v^2 for power needed for a given speed, I have not lost 35% voltage from the battery. If it were, that'd be starting at 84V and would have dropped to 54V.

But, if it is both volts and amps drops (as if into a constant resistance), I agree it would be closer to that situation.

So, do you genuinely think, then, that is is just battery voltage at play, and there is no derating with SOC?

[jeff-jordan]

Look for the parameter: LowVolProtect.
When the controller measures the voltage configured, it reduces the line current and with this goes the reduction of max. speed and accelleration.
You are then driving in the so called "turtle mode", until the voltage rises again to the parameter LowVolRestore (which is at least 2V higher than LowVolProtect).

But beware of the cut-off voltage of your battery!
My battery cuts off power at 3 bars of the dash board of the speedo, which is about 66V. That means that the BMS inside my 100Ah battery is configured to stop delivering energy when the cells drop below 3.3V each. Maybe the 120Ah battery goes further down.

As I reported here (a long time ago), initially my controller wasn't configured with a matching voltage for LowVolProtect, so I suddenly lost power at the end of a long ride and I had to push my bike to the hard shoulder.

So: first determine the voltage of you battery at the point it cuts off power completely by deliberately driving it empty. Then set the parameter a few volt above the cut off level.
With my 100Ah battery I'm fine with 67.4V.

Take in mind to measure the voltage using the controller itself, and the app. My genuine DY72V150A controller has a very poor accuracy in doing so (+2% error).

Btw. the soc of the battery is not easy to determine from its voltage! The voltage is everything but linear and depends on other factors too, like temperature, actually drawn current and a dynamic (retarding to the drawn currents) inner conductance.

[callitoh]

Musste feststellen, dass alles läuft nachdem ich eine Nacht drüber schlief und morgendlich den Gasgriff bewegte

Braunes Kabel am Fardriver ist fürs Display nicht das One Line!

Habe die Kiste zusammengebaut ein paar Verkleidungsclips sind leider abhanden gekommen.

Muss eventuell noch das BMS in seiner Konfiguration etwas mehr an den Akku anpassen. Das ist vom Vorbesitzer schon auf ein jk-bms umgebaut worden.

zzt. folgende Daten:

Musste das Passwort resetten - hiermit kann man das PW bei JK-bms mittels seriennummer erstellen: https://mirofromdiro.github.io/JK-firmware-code/

Vielleicht weiß jemand wo ich günstig die clips herbekomme?

Und was die verbauten Zellen können? Ich habe den 120Ah Akku. 20A Ladegerät habe ich ebenfalls hier rumliegen.

Will die Kiste schnellstmöglich auf die Straße bringen, bin gespannt was der Tüv sagt.

[dominik]

Ich würde, wenn die Zellen gut beisammen sind , die "start Balance vol" deutlich erhöhen.
Solange es ausreicht würde ich es auf 3,9-4V einstellen. Dann muss der Balancer nicht permanent arbeiten sondern nur kurz vor der Vollladung.

[Zimmermännche]

Habe die Kiste zusammengebaut ein paar Verkleidungsclips sind leider abhanden gekommen.

Vielleicht weiß jemand wo ich günstig die clips herbekomme?

Schau mal hier in dem Thread:
viewtopic.php?f=157&t=42939

Dort ist unter anderem eine Suchbezeichnung aufgeführt und auch eine Datei zum Selbstdruck.

Hier im Forum gibt es auch noch eine Datei welche Jeff-Jordan vor längerem erstellt hatte, welche ich auch zum Drucken verwendet habe

Ich empfehle diese Clips nur aus PLA zu drucken oder bei Resindruckern mit Standardresin und einige auf Ersatz zu legen.
Es ist besser wenn diese bei der Demontage brechen als, dass die Halterungen dahinter abbrechen (ist mir nämlichen an einer Stelle auch schon passiert)

Du meinst ja bestimmt diese Clips

[jeff-jordan]

...
Vielleicht weiß jemand wo ich günstig die clips herbekomme?
...

Bspw. hier.
So schön bekommt man sie selbst nicht gedruckt .

[Miguello80]

Kann man den AMR Motor nicht vielleicht von Encoder auf Hall-Sensor umbauen?

Hi Jeff, check this, it should be both encoder and hall sensor PCB board:
https://webshop.torpmotors.com/product/ ... otor-copy/
https://www.all4ride.co/en-eu/products/ ... 4274950476 (see there are both options to select)
Here it is used on Talaria that has encoder motors so it is possible to get an encoder.
But it does not have a hole for the shaft so no use for us.

But I found this on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007591573868.html - really big board
Of course there are smaller hall sensor boards. It should be possible to replace encoder in 10kW AMR motor with them.

[bob2.0]

But beware of the cut-off voltage of your battery!
My battery cuts off power at 3 bars of the dash board of the speedo

Yes, mine too!

The very first time out on my bike doing a range test. "I did not get the memo!"

There was definitely a turtle mode period before that, too.

I had assumed the reduction in power I feel around 50% was a controller programme.

But if you all assure me it isn't, and it's just battery voltage ...... OK .... I'll live with it, then!

It's a frustration because the battery 'can' put out more power, it's just that the controller doesn't want to. So, if I start in speed 2, which I often do on a long trip because that's enough to keep up with most traffic, at around 60~50% it becomes inadequate and I change to speed 3 which is pretty much like speed 2 with a full battery.

I might like to have hoped it could simply compensate and keep up the power output, if it is programmed to deliver a 'power output'? I guess it delivers a 'quantity of ooomph' based on current, rather than power?

[dominik]

It is programmed for battery current and for phase current. If battery voltage drops then the total output power drops too, as it is battery current multiplied with battery voltage.
You will loose about 25% of power from a full battery until the turtle mode is reached and reduces even more.