E-Odin 2.0 und Fardriver ND72530

[bob2.0]

I have a julet connector and an interface to a usb.

If you go to the fardriver website, there is a PC windows programme you can then download.

A phone BT app is useful for small fiddling changes, but I feel an autistic need to see ALL of the options available, on a big screen.

It's available here;
https://www.far-driver.com/controller-s ... or-pc-182/

[bob2.0]

Wenn Du die Autolearn-Sequenz gestartet hast, musst Du den Gasgriff gezogen halten, erst dann passiert was. Der Gasgriff muss so lange gezogen bleiben bis die Autolearn-Sequenz beendet ist und der Motor wieder stillsteht.

Can you say which parameters the auto-learn renews?

I mean, if I have made various button/regen/power changes, do those all stay the same if I repeat an auto-learn?

I think I should re-run it when the motor is hot after a run, not cold in the garage. But, I am worried all the effort setting it up might go away, and also I don't seem to be able to trigger a new auto-learn, either?

My controller came with certain settings, like, 4 pole pairs (I know there are 24, because I had to re-glue every one in by hand!! ) and 12" wheel. Does a fresh auto-learn rewrite all of those back to start, or some of them, or none of them (just, buried variables we can't see?).

I noticed the 'phase offset' went from 30 degrees to 31 degrees, for example. I wonder if that is something the auto-learn updates?

Anyway, I can fix those (if I see what has been reset), but how do I trigger a 'hot' auto-learn? I have heard you can do it by holding the throttle fully open when starting the bike, and then pressing the brake lever in a certain way?.

[dominik]

Auto Learn only changes Motor and throttle values.

[bob2.0]

Feedback on my new controller installation .....

IT'S NOISY!

(This is British irony!)

First, it can now hold a sustained high speed long enough that wind noise has now become a problem!

Second, the front wheel can now spin up fast enough that its imbalance starts shaking (I fitted the tyre myself, and did not previously balance it as there was no need!!).

Third, the motor can now get hot enough that the PID requirements change, and it starts delivering a noisy ripple torque at its resonance (~25kph).

Dealing with those In turn; it was a blustery day here in the UK, and 'going faster' for that long was not an experience I have had on this bike! I did realise this yesterday on a test ride, and refitted the screen I had made for the front of it, after cutting it a bit shorter (I had previously made it too tall and had removed it because it was sending turbulence into the helmet).

I managed to balance up the front wheel with some weights I had, by delicate touch and some trial and error. Seems quite well balanced now and will run at 110kph smoothly.

The torque ripple resonance I've always had but it was distinctly worse after fitting the controller. After reviewing fardriver materials, the variable 'AN' in the PID section seems to be able to help control this sort of behaviour. It suggested the '22' that was set as default was the setting for 'a car' and if there was torque ripple to reduce this value until it was satisfactory. I tried different values and set for '5'. And this seemed good and normal, at the motor temperatures I set it at. However, after an hour on the motorway at 100kph (GPS, actual, I had calibrated and set the speedo exactly to GPS)) I came off and found it was noisy again with torque ripple at lower speeds. I stopped to check the temp 'by hand', the hub was hot to the touch (any hotter and it would have been too hot to touch), but of course the windings would have been hotter than that. After stopping those 5 minutes and riding slower a bit more, the torque ripple subsided.

The bike will now exceed 110kph, limited only by the maximum speed I have set and the maximum current from the battery, but, clearly, it would go a bit faster if set accordingly.

I have set the speeds 1 and 2 to deliver as much power as the software is able to set, which is; max 50A phase speed '1', and 100A phase speed '2'. I have adjusted the rev limit in speed 2 to be a mph faster than 90kph (the speed limit for trucks), my logic being I can set '2' and keep the accel fully on, and by doing that trucks should not be gaining on me whilst also minimising battery consumption. '1' I have set a limit of 45mph, and it is both quite functional around town and also (with the 'linear' throttle response) still controllable enough at slow speed to use as a 'walk-assist'. IMHO they work well, so I'd tend to recommend those settings for '1' and '2'; 40A/50A/600rpm, and '80A/100A/820rpm' with 'linear throttle' so that you can control it as a push-assistance.

I was aided in this extra speed by having installed an extra 16Ah in the top box, from batteries I have bought. I have some more on the way, they are 2 x 10s8p, listed as 30Ah, but I doubt that. Maybe 20Ah. The Aliexpress listing says they are 3.5kg each, which is 16~20Ah by mass of '10s'. (I've bought 10s because my pedal bike uses 36V, so, this way, I have a variety of batteries for both my pedal bike and the e-Odin.)

What seems certain now is that before I was limited by the controller derating. Now, it does not seem to derate at all, and TBH my bigger concern now is whether it might actually drive the motor long enough to cause that to overheat? The weather was mid-20s, and as there seemed to be no controller temperature issue, then I think my 'gap' (heat sink suspended under metal plate by a cm) is sufficient and I'm not currently seeing a need for holes or active fans.

[bob2.0]